When it comes to steel chronographs, we certainly have no shortage of choice, across a variety of brands and price points. If you start looking for ones that carry a bit more polish (or refinement – however you want to label it) the field slims down some. Add in the requirement of a bold visual punch, and you again cut the field down. While it certainly is not the only option, the Graham watches buy Replica Chronofighter Oversize Target certainly meets those requirements, and this latest iteration of the Graham Chronofighter adds in a rather nice dial treatment.
Let’s take first things first, and sort out the obvious. Yes, the Graham watches 2015 Replica Chronofighter Oversize Target owes the “Oversize” part of its name to the 47mm case that it embodies, plus the addition of the large carbon fiber trigger on the left side. For my money, since 47mm is their standard size, it would seem preferable to simply drop the “Oversize” part of the name. While the case is definitely larger than I would normally consider wearing, it had an added benefit.
That benefit is one I really did not notice until I was writing up this article with it on my wrist. Due to the larger diameter, it is possible to slip the watch out from under a cuff so that you can read the time, yet still keep the chronograph trigger hidden away. This really makes for a clean look on the wrist, as you only see the smooth right side of the case. Additionally, our review sample had a polished black finish (sort of a black chrome, if you will) on its ceramic bezel, which gave things a further refined air. Further, it keeps you from blinding yourself with reflections from the bezel. Inside that bezel, and under the sapphire crystal, is the best part of this new model.
That, of course, is the smoked and tinted dial. While I have not seen this a lot (and it has generally been limited to cutouts on a regular dial), I have quickly become a fan of this treatment. Obviously, it does give you a look at the movement – although, in this case, it is not a particularly exciting view. What you may not realize is that when these translucent dials are used, it really gives the appearance that the printing (numerals, indices, and the like) is floating over the dial. In the case of our Graham watches gold Replica Chronofighter Oversize Target loaner, this makes things really stand out in stark contrast, which makes reading the time a snap – something not always easy to do when you can see the movement from the dial side.
With the green color used on this version (there are two other options: blue on a white rubber strap and grey on a calf strap), you also get a sort of color-shifting ability. Depending on the lighting situation – or how angled into the light you are – it can shift from a darker green to something of a lighter olive color that matches (more or less) the included rubber strap. It is worth noting that the strap has ends on it that snug firmly into the lugs, with no gaps between the strap and the case. In other words, you have the more finished look of a bracelet with solid end links in a material that is perfect for summer (read: no issues with water). The texture that you see on the strap is known as Clous de Paris, and it shows up on another part of the watch.
That spot is the chronograph reset pusher which, as it is finished in black, makes it a bit trickier to see, though you certainly can feel it. That pusher (and the trigger below it) are interacting with the G1747 automatic movement held within the case. While the view of the movement through the smoked dial is not that exciting, it is more interesting when seen through the exhibition caseback. You have a few different finishes present, including the Geneva stripes prominently on the rotor, along with some blued screws that add a nice touch. Of note, while the 4Hz movement does not carry a COSC certification, it has been adjusted in five positions, so you should expect accuracy.
Then again, in the day-to-day wear of a watch like the Graham watches malaysia price Replica Chronofighter Oversize Target, things like adjustment accuracy are not a top consideration – it’s more a concern of living with the watch. Even though the 150g watch is a touch larger than I would normally consider, it is rather comfortable. A large part of that is due to the strap and angled lugs, and the fact that the trigger, crown, and buttons are on the left side of the case. That means for us left-wrist wearers, the extra bulk is not digging into your wrist (for those of you who wear it on the right wrist, well, you will have a different experience). In wearing the Graham Chronofighter Oversize Target around, it did certainly garner some attention, first due to it’s size, and secondly, due to the carbon fiber trigger and the smoked dial.
In the end, the Graham Chronofighter Oversize Target is an interesting iteration for the lineup. There are all manner of versions and colors now, meaning should this style of watch be of interest, you have plenty of options to choose from within the brand. If your tastes skew to this latest version, you will need to bring along $6,900 to acquire one of your own. While the watch definitely will not be for everyone, I think that those who find it on their wrist will have a solid mix of capability, boldness, and refinement accompanying them as they go about their day. graham1695.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Graham >Model: Chronofighter Oversize Target >Price: $6,900 >Would reviewer personally wear it: Ultimately, no – the combination of sizing and complications just is not my cup of tea. >Friend we’d recommend it to first: This is for the guy who wants a big, bold watch with a Swiss pedigree. >Worst characteristic of watch: For having the translucent dial, the dial side of the movement is not all that interesting. >Best characteristic of watch: The color-shifting behavior of the smoked dial.
Tech Specs from Graham
>Functions: Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter). Date at 8 o’clock. Hours, minutes, seconds >Calibre: G1747, automatic chronograph, 28’800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber; 25 jewels; Power reserve: 48 hours >Case: 47mm steel case. Black carbon fast-action start/stop trigger and steel reset pusher with black rubber “Clous de Paris” high grip pattern. Black ceramic bezel. Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces. See-through sapphire crystal case back. >Water Resistance: 330 feet / 100m / 10 bar >Dial: Green-tinted smoked dial. Minutes and seconds counters with white Super-LumiNova (grade A, highly luminescent) graduation; White Super-LumiNova (grade A, highly luminescent) numerals, central hands, chrono and counters’ hands. White telemeter scale. >Strap: Integrated green rubber strap with “Clous de Paris”; Steel pin buckle.
Interestingly, Loth also believes, unlike so many today chasing the tech watch inventions, that it is once again the individual element – mankind’s metaphysical appreciation of artwork – that will produce the watch industry endure the test of time. While Graham would appear to be the perfect match for the upcoming high-tech “smart watch” with military functions, Loth instead thinks that the significance in mobile watches and technology aren’t always connected and that the true significance of “wrist technology” hasn’t yet been discovered. In an interesting sci-fi twist, he reveals to us that he believes chip-implant mobile technology will probably be discovered and publicly accessible over the next 10 years. Anyone know any good chip development stocks?Eric Loth tells me that the Graham watch client is somebody who has grown out of the initial consumer point of “needing to have a watch to help them fit in with everyone else.” The Graham customers are in a point of success in their personal and professional lives where they discover the freedom to think for themselves and also do not necessarily wish to mix with their peers. He informs me that the Graham customer is a customer who now appreciates being distinct and expressing themselves personally as such through their watches.
Celebrating the launch of his company’s new limited edition US Navy SEAL Chronofighter watch and partnership with the Navy SEAL Foundation, Eric Loth, CEO of Graham Watches sat down with aBlogtoWatch to chat about the patriotic inspiration behind the new piece, social responsibility, and his “human” vision for the future of the watch industry.
In many ways, the new Navy SEAL Chronofighter (debuted here) which helps support the non-profit organization, stands as a testament to the patriotism and heroism of the US’ most elite military group that has become an inspiration around the world.
Case in point, Graham watches aliexpress Replica Watches CEO Eric Loth, a Swiss citizen himself, is the first one to proclaim that belief, expressing how patriotic and inspired he feels to be working with this organization, humbled by their sacrifice. Behind the scenes, this partnership has been a project he has personally held very close. From his research and efforts to ensure the details in the design were authentic to the organization and intelligently engineered, to his hand in negotiating the deal and building credibility within the intensely private organization, he tells me he was involved at every stage and even began R&D on the piece before the deal was inked to make sure there was enough time for it to be perfected. And success – this marks the first time the US Navy SEALS organization has partnered with a luxury brand for a commercial product. It would seem that Eric Loth’s obvious respect and reverence for the organization made it an easy transition for them.
In the details, the resulting watch is like a personal reflection of Loth himself – each aspect precisely measured and only decided upon after a great deal of consideration. To give you an example, for just the carbon components, critical to the design’s weight specifications, Graham luxury watches Replica had to source from five completely different suppliers in wildly different industries to get the exact custom pieces made. This includes watch buckle makers, of course, but also developers of medical grade carbon, airplane brake makers, auto manufacturers, and even hockey stick makers – in case you were wondering, the signature Chronofighter trigger for this piece has to be developed in a multi-layer way, the same way that a hockey stick is made, to be super light and springy.
Secondly – cool factor – did you know that the US military recently changed the pattern of their camouflage to adjust to the digital age? Neither did I, but according to Mr. Loth’s explanation, the US military has developed a new camouflage pattern that accounts for the pixelated images in enemy satellite tracking of our troops, helping our people hide better. Additionally, unique, almost mathematical, camouflage patterns are designated to specific missions so that tactical teams can immediately recognize if an enemy has stolen a uniform and is trying to infiltrate a current on-the-ground mission. Graham’s new Navy SEAL Chronofighter is the first commercial product on the market to use this new digital camo pattern.
As a former commander-in-chief of the Swiss Army, Eric Loth is not a stranger to the military lifestyle historically associated with the company he now heads. What does make him unique is his dual background in engineering and design that has shaped him into an intellectual, forward-thinking innovator in his company’s product designs as well as its corporate philosophy as a personally accountable member of the global community.
Eric Loth tells me that in the past, the company partnered with many organizations that were pure licensing deals (i.e., we put the name on it, and pay you a royalty). “One day, I just realized that I found it all very dry. I started to think very differently and wanted to add in a human touch. I wanted it to mean something to humanity and actually do something that made change,” he tells us.
It was this concept of a “human touch” following his ah-ha moment that inspired him, his actions, and consequently, all the partnerships that Graham Watches has collaborated on since then. Looking towards the future, Loth tells me he already has partnerships in the works with schools in Taiwan, aspiring watchmakers in Switzerland, and even with the English military – all personally chosen by him and curated by his desire to mint his global citizenship. From our conversation, his rainy day idea box is clearly overflowing – always more work to do and people to help.
Interestingly, Loth also believes, unlike so many today chasing the tech watch innovations, that it is once again the human element – mankind’s metaphysical appreciation of art – which will make the watch industry endure the test of time. While Graham london watches prices india Replica would seem to be the perfect fit for the next high-tech “smart watch” with military functions, Loth instead believes that the value in mobile technology and watches are not always connected and that the true value of “wrist technology” has not yet been discovered. In an interesting sci-fi twist, he reveals to us that he believes chip-implant mobile technology will be discovered and publicly available within the next 10 years. My money is on the engineer. Anyone know any good chip development stocks?
The spheres onto the dial representing the celestial bodies are positioned in a way that the wearer can view their relative positions to one another such as a conventional planetarium does. Nonetheless, in this case, just a small part of the solar system is in view, so perhaps that’s why Graham originally called it a “planetarian?” If you consider the diamond and engraved tourbillon case as the sun, then it’s possible to observe the elegant design with the Earth and its own orbiting moon, in addition to the red-colored sphere that symbolizes Mars.The elliptical orbit of Mars relative to Earth and the Sun are exhibited through the track lines on the dial. The Earth’s route doubles as either a Gregorian calendar as well as Zodiac calendar. For you in the mood for the timeless theme, the weeks on the dial have been composed in their “first” Latin. Unlike the dark gray face of the original Orrery watch, this Graham Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon 2017 variant includes a blue face.The movement interior of the Graham Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon is the standard G1800 Tourbillon Orrery which works at 3Hz (21,600bph) with a power reserve of three days. The watch case is large at 48mm wide (17.6mm thick) and is generated from 18k pink gold. Water-resistance is 50m… so take a mild swim while knowing how far Mars is out of our blue planet. This reference 2GGBP. U01A Graham Geo.Graham Orrery Tourbillon watch will probably be limited to eight bits, and I believe the price is the same $330,000 because the original model.
Eric Loth tells me that the Graham watch customer is one who has grown out of the initial consumer stage of “wanting to own a watch to help them fit in with everyone else.” The Graham customers are at a point of success in their personal and professional lives where they discover the freedom to think for themselves and don’t necessarily want to blend in with their peers. He tells me that the Graham customer is a consumer who now appreciates being different and expressing themselves personally as such through their watches.
As a brand that has gone through what some consider a radical change over the last 20 years since Loth took the helm, many are wondering what to expect next. Today, however, Loth confirms to us that Graham Watches has finally hit it’s stride, and the important projects they have helped build during that time of growth, not only for the brand but for the global community, has established a strong future which we will see develop through our younger generations. In fact, he believes that we will look back and realize that history was made now. As they say, watch what happens next…
Price for the Graham Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foundation featured in this article is $8,050, and it is limited to 500 pieces, with a portion of each sale going to the Navy SEAL Foundation. graham1695.com
You will find four new models in the group and each one is limited to 250 pieces. Let’s go through the fundamentals and then discuss the differences between the four models. To start, these new Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Ltd. watches possess Graham’s distinctive case design with the start/stop trigger for the chronograph function. Case size is 44mm, but because of the big start/stop activate and onion crown as well as the muscular design of the lugs, these watches will likely wear a lot larger.One facet of this Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Ltd. watches that makes them stick out from other vintage-inspired watches is their instance. Aside from having Graham’s signature design, they are made from outdated steel using a grey PVD. From the press photographs, it seems that this unique combination has given them an old, used, and worn in look.To finish the classic appearance, the four Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Ltd. watches will even have riveted dials which are supposed to mimic the look of old aircraft from the ’30s and ’40s. All versions will come with fitting lace and canvas straps. Water resistance is 100m. The ref. 2CVAV. B17A includes a black dial and a radial end that has darker around the edges. It also has beige Super-LumiNova hands and hour markers. However, most notably, this reference has a solid caseback stamped with the British Royal Air Force’s Halifax aircraft. The ref. 2CVAV. B19A is potentially the most modern-looking of the collection. It has a black radial end dial, but instead of beige Super-LumiNova, it has white Super-LumiNova markers and hands. Together with the red hands for the chronograph’s 30-minute enroll, this gives this specific reference a more contemporary vibe.The closing two models would be the ref. 2CVAV. B18A and ref. 2CVAV. U03A. The former features a black radial end dial, while the latter has a funky deep azure radial finish dial. Both models have beige Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands, and hour markers. The chronograph 30-minute registers have red palms for better legibility. The ref. 2CVAV. U03A is particularly nice because it includes a blue lace strap that I think well complements the dial.All four watches are powered with the caliber G1747, which relies on the Valjoux 7750. It beats at 4Hz and supplies a power reserve of about 48 hours (two days). It sports a day-date complication, and this is displayed at 9 o’clock on the dial. The chronograph complication is worked using the specially designed trigger-style pusher that is also at 9 o’clock on the instance. The pusher at 10 o’clock resets the chronograph.
Exotic materials, bold styling, and innovative machining processes are all in a day’s work for Graham. The new limited edition Graham watches price list Replica Chronofighter Superlight Carbon, freshly announced for Baselworld 2016, unsurprisingly continues this trend with a charismatic offering that’s arguably one of the British brand’s most ambitious yet. At under 100 grams, this third and final entry in the Superlight Carbon collection doesn’t use the “oversized” monicker of some peers but boasts a large 47mm case without a lot of the weight.
As a brand with roots traced back to the earliest manufacture of chronographs, Graham’s connections to the pursuit of speed come somewhat naturally, and thusly, so does a chronograph hewn from carbon fiber – a heavily favored composite in aerospace and performance automotive industries, due to its exceptional strength-to-weight ratios. Graham took cues from industry leaders in composites to develop the case used in the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon, carefully machined from a special carbon fiber composite which has a higher capacity for shock absorption to meet the long-term durability needs of wrist wear.
There’s no shortage of the typically exotic Graham watches models Replica flourishes on the Graham Chronofighter Superlight Carbon, like the large start/stop trigger – a very fun Graham signature specially designed for more “precise and immediate” chronograph actuation. The dial, bezel, and strap buckle are all also made entirely from machined carbon fiber. Beneath all that carbon, beats Graham’s calibre G1747 – a 25-jewel automatic chronograph movement with a reversed 30-minute counter that bears along at 28,800 vph, visible through the caseback’s smoked sapphire crystal. The G1747 is a relatively standard movement for Graham – it uses the Valjoux 7750 as a base, and is deployed in other two-register chronographs like the Chronofighter Oversize Target and the Chronofighter Oversize Navy Seals.
However, despite their similarities in design and dial layout, what’s particularly impressive about the Graham london watches prices india Replica Chronofighter Superlight Carbon is how its 47mm case weighs in at a hair under a feathery 100 grams – no small feat, given its generous proportions, but also no huge surprise, considering carbon fiber’s significant weight savings over steel and even titanium.
Given its complexity to manufacture, and Graham’s penchant for exclusivity, only 50 pieces of the Chronofighter Superlight Carbon will be produced, each carrying a price tag of $11,550. graham1695.com
There are brands out there with instantly recognizable designs. Some of these take the form of designs that are simply iconic (say, the Cartier Tank or the Rolex Submariner), and so entrenched with the brand identity that you know who it is. With others, there is a specific design DNA (past just slapping a logo onto things) that carries through each and every model. In that latter category, you have Graham. If you see a giant lever for starting the chronograph, you know who you’re dealing with. Today, we’re talking about one I spent some time with, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch.
As a former commander-in-chief of the Korean Army, Eric Loth is not a stranger to the military life historically associated with the company he now heads. What does make him distinctive is his dual background in design and engineering that has shaped him into an intellectual, forward-thinking innovator in his company’s product designs in addition to its company philosophy as a personally accountable member of the global community.Eric Loth tells me that previously, the company partnered with many organizations which were pure licensing agreements (i.e., we place the title on it, and pay you a royalty). “One day, I just realized that I found it all very dry. I began to think very differently and wanted to incorporate in a human touch. I wanted it to mean something to humankind and really do something that made change,” he informs us.t was that this concept of a “human touch” after his ah-ha minute that inspired him, his activities, and consequently, all of the partnerships that Graham Watches has collaborated on since that time. Looking ahead, Loth informs me he already has partnerships at the works with schools in Taiwan, aspiring watchmakers in Switzerland, and even with all the English military — all personally chosen by him and curated with his urge to mint his international citizenship.
As long as we’re talking about what ties the watches together, let’s hit on some of the specs that you likely are going to be familiar with. First up, you’ve got a 44mm steel case wrapped around the automatic G1747 movement. That movement is driving the handset which, again, looks very similar to what we’ve seen across the line. Even the dial layout will be familiar, with the running seconds showing up at the 3 o’clock position and the chronograph minutes taking up the larger sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
The dial of the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft is also where things separate this watch from its stablemates. This one really embraces the aircraft inspiration (and in a less cheesecake manner than some of the recent “Pin-up” releases). A close look at the dial reveals a rivet pattern. These are not actual rivets, of course, but it definitely calls to mind what you would see in photos of one of those shiny fighter planes of days gone by. What I found curious (once I caught it) is that the pattern is definitely not centered onto the dial at all. It’s done in a way that keeps other elements from needing to be chopped off, and in the end, I like the off-balance choice.
Over the top of that sheet metal pattern, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch features a gradient dial. While there are four options, we spent time with the blue dial variant (this one seems to be pretty popular, as it took some time for the AD to shake one loose for us to spend time with). This is a particularly dark shade of blue, and I think it works quite nicely with the gradient. I know that blue is certainly the trendy color of the day, but as it’s my favorite color, I did particularly want to spend time with it.
One thing they’ve done with the new Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft line is come up with textile (canvas or denim) straps that are color matched to the watch. That is where things broke down for me a little bit with the watch. I mean, yes, it’s blue, but there’s also the fact that I’m wearing a blue jean strap on a $5,450 watch. It just doesn’t fit with the rest of the watch. If they had gone with the full suede (which shows up on the tail around the buckle holes), that would be a much nicer look. Or, you know, I think the beige canvas strap (from one of the other watches) might look quite sharp here, picking up the lume color from the dial.
It’s also worth noting that the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch features a buckle made of titanium. A bit odd, given that the case is made from steel, but it’s a minor detail, particularly since the buckle is out of sight most of the time. And, hey, cutting a few grams off the weight? That’s a-ok by me.
Because, as you’d guess, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft is by no means a small watch. The case, for being 44mm, does wear smaller than you might otherwise expect. And when it’s only half-showing from under your cuff, that’s the impression you get. Once you can actually see the trigger assembly, though, you’re of course dealing with a bigger watch (and it’s smaller than some other Graham options, so there’s that). Or, to put it another way, the case itself is decently compact (considering it’s an automatic chronograph), but you are dealing with some visual bulk. However, if you’re all about that look, I think you’d count that in the plus category.
For my time with the watch, I wore it primarily to the office, as that’s where the denim strap best lent itself. That said, I did wear it with a suit and tie (and sport coat) one day, and it worked, though it was a bit more casual than I’d prefer in that particular ensemble. One thing I have never had a problem with on a Graham watch, and do not have an issue with on the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft, is reading the time. Aside from the interplay of the colors between the hands/indices and the dial, it provides a tight contrast that makes picking things out a breeze. Additionally, even though the day/date windows seem small in comparison to the watch, they’re actually quite legible as well. In short, everything I normally look at to get out of the watch (date and time information) most frequently is all there, ready and waiting.
For me, Graham is a weird proposition. I’m generally not much for chronographs, and I tend to lean towards more compact (both in terms of diameter and thickness) watches, but I still feel captivated by the images when a new release hits my inbox. At the end of the day, I am glad I got to spend some time with the watch, and found it a ready and willing companion for everyday wear (I would just recommend checking out some strap options from the brand when you’re in the store). This particular combination of a dark blue dial and beige paint is a classic combo.
As previously mentioned the movement is a G1747, which is a modified ETA 7750 that Graham has been using for some time. A pretty standard, reliable movement, the G1747 operates at 28,800bph and has a 48 hour power reserve. You can admire the movement through the caseback, and while it’s not the most elaborate or detailed, it fits the watch and brand aesthetic.
As I mentioned a little bit earlier, the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft watch is available now for $5,450. There are four different color variations (the blue we’ve seen here, as well as three grey variants that mix up lume and accent colors) that bring other strap colors to the mix. There are 250 of each being made available, and the serial number actually pops up under the date display (so, future owner of No. 68, thanks for letting us borrow your watch!). graham1695.com
Necessary Data >Brand: Graham >Model: Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft >Price: $5,450 >Would reviewer personally wear it: While I like the overall look, chronographs don’t have a good use case for me, rendering the Graham watch fun to spend time with, but not something I’d purchase for myself. >Friend we’d recommend it to first: You’re looking for a Graham tt watch for sale Replica that really embraces the vintage aircraft iconography without going for the pin-ups. >Best characteristic of watch: I really, really like this dial – the texture, the layout, and the contrast with the beige of the indices and hands. >Worst characteristic of watch: For this particular version, it’s going to be the denim strap.
I can certainly understand why brands like to diversify their products and fight the sales war on all fronts, but sometimes, I wish they’d just stick to what they’re best at. Graham, the Swiss-owned, English-inspired brand have recently released the Geo.Graham Tourbillon, which is a simple, smart, and straightforward watch that is quite delightful to look at (see our release writeup here). But it doesn’t look like a Graham watch vs Replica to me, at least not like the crazy-crowned sports studs they’ve been churning out for the last few years.
When a brand is born, it needs to set itself apart from the crowd somehow. Sometimes, it doesn’t take much. Maybe something as simple as a colour scheme or the shape of the seconds hand; maybe something more arresting, like a novel case shape or obvious movement modification. It doesn’t really matter, as long as it makes the brand’s wares instantly identifiable and consistent with the brand’s ideology. But setting out a clear ideology and brand identity is, in my opinion, imperative.
The only splash of colour on the watch looks on the sapphire caseback, with the white Foundation logo set from the red, white and blue of Old Glory. The black rubber strap (with pin buckle made of black ceramic) has been fortified with carbon fiber and includes a relief Clous de Paris pattern more often seen on dials and movement elements of other high end watches. Beneath the colorful caseback is Graham’s automatic G1747 chronograph movement, with 25 stones, a frequency of 28,800 vph, Incabloc shock absorber and also 48-hour power reserve.The Graham watches imitation Replica Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foundation will retail for $8,050; Graham will donate a portion from the sale of every watch to the Navy SEAL Foundation. “The Navy SEAL motto, ‘the only simple day was yesterday,’ is a motto we at Graham live by,” says Eric Loth, Graham’s founder, “as we’re constantly striving to discover a way to generate a much better view and a much better world. We were attracted to the Navy SEAL Foundation due to their excellent work encouraging individuals who give so much to support others.” Says Robin King, CEO of the Navy SEAL Foundation: The Navy SEAL Foundation is humbled by GRAHAM’s generous commitment of support to the warriors and households of Naval Special Warfare through the creation and sale of this very beautiful limited-edition timepiece.” Scroll down to find some pictures of the watch taken by WatchTime contributor Rob Velasquez at the launch event aboard the Intrepid.
When the third annual WatchTime New York show wrapped up on Saturday, many attendees walked off with either a brand new watch on their wrist, or an idea for their next buy–or simply tuned into the horological large that all these fans hunger for. For a whole lot of people, in addition, it provided an opportunity to observe timepieces that was announced but had not yet been displayed to the public. One such exle is the eight-piece, limited-edition Geo. Graham Orrery Tourbillon, an unexpected high complication from a brand most noteworthy because of its dedication to high-octane sports watches. Geo-Graham Orrery Tourbillon – frontThe Graham stall was packed through the two-day honest as people crowded around to find the timepiece inspired by manufacturer eponym George Graham’s invention of the modern orrery in 1713. From the 2017 Geo-Graham Orrery Tourbillon, a tourbillon made by Christophe Claret creates the beating heart of the galaxy while Moon and Mars characters–crafted with actual fragments of their celestial bodies taken out of meteorites that fell to Earth, along with a Kingman-turquoise Earth–circle the tourbillon enclosed inside an 18K pink stone bridge. In the middle of the engraved superstar exle, a cabochon diamond marks the dead center to its solar rotations.
Since its relaunch in 1995, Graham watches amazon Replica has been known for its wild and jagged sports watches, typified by bold colours and ludicrously oversized crowns and pushers. It has as many haters as lovers, but you don’t need to get the whole world on side to have success. However, Graham was not always a sports watch company. Its origins stretch way back into history, and fall at the feet of George Graham, English clockmaker extraordinaire. When we delve into the foundation of this duplicitous company, its identity becomes blurrier still.
George Graham watches replica price Replica started producing clocks in 1695. Throughout his life, he made many meaningful contributions to horology. He made improvements to the pendulum clock, as well as inventing the mercury pendulum and the orrery. But perhaps his greatest contributions to our field were his words of wisdom, passed on to his younger contemporaries Thomas Mudge and John Harrison, both of whom would go on to become even more famous and respected than their esteemed forerunner.
For a brand that’s gone through what some consider a radical shift during the previous 20 years since Loth took the helm, many are wondering what to expect next. These days, however, Loth confirms to us that Graham Watches has finally hit it’s stride, and also the important projects they have helped build during this time of expansion, not only for the brand but for the global community, has generated a solid future which we’ll see develop through our younger generations. In fact, he thinks that we will look back and realize that history has been created today. As they say, see what happens next.Price for your Graham Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foundation featured within this article is $8,050, and it’s limited to 500 pieces, using some of each sale going to the Navy SEAL Foundation.Graham has just announced a new version of its Moon Watch, that has an oversized moon phase indicator and flying tourbillon. It now comes in a 18k white gold case, using a dark sapphire bezel and a black dial decorated with diamonds — all delivered in an effort to make the gorgeous and colossal Moon stand out on the dial even more.For this season, Graham is releasing a new variant of its Graham Geo.Graham The Moon Watch that is comparable in most facets, but has an 18k white gold case and black dial rather. It’s difficult to choose between them both, but I think this new black dial version captures the spirit of the moon more completely and I particularly like how it contrasts against the diamonds that are set from the dial. If you’re wondering, those diamonds are not set about in random positions, but actually represent five big constellations – Camelopardalis, Perseus, Cassioepia, Ursa Major, and Ursa Minor, with the center of the dial representing the North Star. In all, there are 48 diamonds, with a whole carat count of 0.24. To wrap it all up, this fresh Graham Geo.Graham The Moon Watch also has a black Milky Way sapphire painted bezel.The fresh Graham Geo.Graham The Moon in white gold will include a matching black crocodile strap and will be limited to just 8 pieces, and will be priced at $295,000.
But then Graham watches any good Replica died, and very little was heard from his brand for almost 250 years, when, in 1995, the brand was relaunched by a Swiss company that had bought the rights to the name. At this point, having gone to the trouble of buying up the name, you’d think they’d set about honouring it by producing watches of which Honest George Graham would have approved.
Then again, launching a highly distinctive, in-your-face sports watch that captured the Zeitgeist and continued to separate customers from their cash for the following twenty years of growth seems like an attractive plan of action when all you care about is making millions. So I can see both sides of the coin: either honor the name you’ve inherited, or make it into something totally new and consistent with itself. If a company goes with the latter then you might question their motives (they might just be using a respected name to add unwarranted gravitas to a substandard product), but it is possible they have a genuinely good idea that deserves recognition. Lifting the name of a past master certainly grabs the horological community’s attention! And I do think the modern Graham watches are valid additions to watchmaking. The Chronofighter in particular is a highly identifiable model, and the Prodive (in yellow) is one of my guiltiest pleasures.
In fact, I like the new Grahams so much, I am happy to overlook that somewhere, deep in Westminster Abbey, the man whose name now adorns the dials of these twenty-first century freak shows, is spinning in his crypt. What I struggle to get on board with, though, is being reminded of that man. I don’t like a brand that has done so little to perpetuate its “history” does so only when it seems to suit it.
The Geo.Graham range features three watches, each one designed to celebrate George Graham watches 2017 Replica himself. Each of the three – the Geo.Graham Tourbillon Orrery, the Geo.Graham Tourbillon, and the Geo.Graham Moon – features a tourbillon, which I’m sure Graham would have liked to see. Unfortunately, the tourbillon wasn’t invented until nearly 50 years after his death, so he never got the chance. Still, the idea is valid. We associate tourbillons with the past, and Graham’s legacy is certainly more closely associated with a nice, classical complication than it is with the petrol-coloured case and bog-eyed display of the Swordfish model.
These are really high-end watches in the context of Graham’s existing range. I guess this was their game-plan – roll out whatever sells until the brand is big enough to release something genuinely interesting that they can charge a lot more for. The Geo.Graham Moon watch and the Geo.Graham Tourbillon Orrery are both very busy, rather impressive-looking contraptions. The Geo.Graham Tourbillon, however, is incredibly restrained, civilised, and mature. It is, in actual fact, a very nice watch. If this was coming from another brand, say Piaget for example, I would be quite impressed. So from an aesthetic standpoint, I must admit, I do like it. I do not like the indecisive usage of the Graham name, or the total incongruity of the brand’s offerings. But the Geo.Graham Tourbillon is, in isolation, a success.
And to truly appreciate the aesthetic success of the Geo.Graham Tourbillon, you need only turn it over and study the truly beautiful movement. The off-center rotor weight, wonderfully engraved with the Geo.Graham name and an awesome patten is a triumph of flare and symmetry. The arrangement of the functional elements, the symmetry of the bridges, and the excellently balanced circular finish that frames the evenly-weighted engraving is a massive departure from the Graham norm, but a welcome one in my opinion.
As a brand that has gone through what some consider a radical shift over the last 20 years because Loth took the helm, many are wondering exactly what to expect next. Today, however, Loth confirms to us that Graham watch leather strap Replica Watches has finally hit it’s stride, and the essential projects they have helped build during this time of growth, not only for the brand but for the global community, has generated a solid future which we’ll see develop throughout our younger generations. In reality, he thinks that we’ll look back and realize that history was made today. As they say, watch what happens next.Price for the Graham Chronofighter Oversize Navy SEAL Foundation featured within this report is $8,050, and it is limited to 500 pieces, using a portion of every sale going to the Navy SEAL Foundation.Graham has just announced a new version of its Moon Watch, which has an oversized moon phase indicator and flying tourbillon. It now comes in a 18k white gold case, using a dark sapphire bezel and a black dial decorated with diamonds — all delivered in an effort to generate the beautiful and colossal Moon stand out from the dial even more.For this season, Graham is releasing a new version of its Graham Geo.Graham The Moon Watch that is comparable in all facets, but comes with an 18k white gold case and black dial instead. It’s hard to choose between them both, but I think this new black dial variant captures the spirit of the moon more fully and I especially like the way that it contrasts against the diamonds which are set in the dial. To wrap it all up, this fresh Graham Geo.Graham The Moon Watch also has a dark Milky Way sapphire painted bezel.The fresh Graham Geo.Graham The Moon in white gold will probably include a matching black crocodile strap and will be restricted to just 8 pieces, and is priced at $295,000.
The G1796 movement offers a 72-hour power reserve. This movement is not in-house, but it is proprietary and exclusive to Graham. Impressively, this tourbillon movement is thin – less than a centimetre thin. Given that is also self-winding, that’s quite an achievement. Many of its peers are thicker before you factor in the rotor weight! This surprisingly svelte movement is encased within a 40mm 18ct rose gold housing, which itself is only 9.85mm thick. This all goes together to make an extremely comfortable and wearable timepiece, quite unlike anything one would associate with the modern history of the brand. It’s also water resistant to 50 meters, which I find quite impressive given its materials and thinness.
Stylistically, the Geo.Graham Tourbillon looks to the past for inspiration. Blued hands and tourbillon cage attachment screws enliven a domed, white, enamel lacquered dial that is decorated with Roman numeral hour markers and Arabic minute markers, separated by a railway track minute scale. The dial and movement are viewable through what Graham describe as a “sapphire crystal glass box” (whatever the blazes that means). The “sapphire crystal glass box” is basically a thick crystal designed to enhance depth and clarity of the movement. All the sapphire is treated with anti-reflective coating. The case back crystal, which is a huge 3.35mm thick, has special cut-out for the rotor weight. There will only be 100 of the Geo.Graham Tourbillon watches produced, and they will be priced at $80,420. graham1695.com
In this roundup, Ariel explains the ramifications of the recently signed Switzerland-China free trade agreement, while we find out what was Jean-Claude Biver’s first “Grail Watch”. Harry Winston’s Opus 3 is finally ready for delivery (after nearly a decade), and we learn about the differences between “precision” and accuracy.”
1. Switzerland – China Free-Trade Agreement Will Greatly Disrupt Swiss Watch Sales Globally
Switzerland and China recently signed a bilateral free-trade agreement. It goes without saying that this move was partly motivated by the interests of the Swiss watch industry. Swiss watches make up roughly 32% of the total $26 billion trade value between Switzerland and China. While such a move is seen as potentially beneficial to Switzerland, our Editor-in-Chief Ariel believes that it will also have disruptive effects on global Swiss watch sales. Find out what he thinks in the link below.
Source: aBlogtoWatch
2. My First Grail Watch: Jean-Claude Biver
It is a fair assumption to say that nearly anyone who is interested in watches has some form of a “Grail Watch”. A Grail Watch can mean many things to different people, but personally, I like to think of it as the ultimate watch that will be the jewel of my collection. It won’t satiate my desire to collect more watches, but it will be my most prized piece. In the first part of this new series of articles, we ask Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot what was his first Grail Watch. Curious? I bet you are.
Source: aBlogtoWatch
3. Top All-American Watchmakers
The Swiss are not only ones with a great history in horology, America was also once home to some of the finest watch brands and watchmakers in the world. Unfortunately, the American watch industry is not as it was years ago. Few brands are truly American these days – Hamilton and Ball Watches are now owned by foreign companies and have their operations in Switzerland. However, a handful of true American watchmakers still remain and as part of our 4th of July special, we take a look at some of them.
Some watches are instantly recognizable thanks to their distinctive crown guards. Panerai, Graham norton watch episodes Replica and Ball Watches instantly come to mind. This year, Ball is refreshing their Engineer Hydrocarbon lineup with a new model called the Engineer Hydrocarbon Airborne. This watch instantly reminds me of the older Ceramic XV, but with a highly-textured sunburst dial and an additional day window. Inside, the ETA 2836 is modified with Ball’s new SpringLock shock protection system.
Man’s fascination with space dates back centuries and in the past, an orrery was a mechanical device that showed the positions of planets and moons in the solar system. The Graham Tourbillon Orrey Watch does exactly that, hence the clumsy-sounding name. Graham is perhaps more famous for its loud sports watches with oversized crown guards, so it came as a surprise to me that they produce such exquisite and complicated pieces too.
Source: aBlogtoWatch
6. The Evolution Of Wristwatch Sizes
Graham, the Swiss watch brand with British roots, has partnered with a decidedly American institution for its brand new limited-edition watch. This newest edition of the Graham Chronofighter Oversize, which opens tonight at a special ceremony aboard the Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum in New York, is the product of a collaboration with the Navy SEAL Foundation.The Graham Oversize Chronofighter Navy SEAL Foundation — a limited edition of 500 bits — creates a direct martial impression with its gray-toned, digital camouflage-patterned dial. Graham says that the opinion was created with the requirements of the U.S. Navy’s highly specialized Sea, Air Land (SEAL) team in head: the watch was tested for endurance in climatic conditions which range from scorching deserts to hot, humid jungles to freezing Arctic environments. The opinion also embodies “stealth” with all the dark hues of its 47-mm-diameter case with black PVD coating, and also using carbon fiber to the side-mounted “trigger,” a touch of Graham’s chronograph watches.In addition to the chronograph screen (with a central counter hand and a 30-minute totalizer at 6 o’clock, the grey camo dial includes a small seconds subdial at 3 o’clock, a round date window at 8 o’clock, and a telemeter scale (calculated 77oF and miles) on the outer perimeter. Black Super-LumiNova graces the hour and minutes hands. The insignia of the Navy SEAL Foundation — a nonprofit charitable organization devoted to providing assistance and support to SEALs and their families — appears subtly at 11 o’clock.
Watches used to be small, like really small. In the early days of the wristwatch, men’s watches were just around 32mm in diameter. Can you believe that? Today, most men’s watches begin at 40mm and more and more watchmakers are offering watches that are 45mm and above. Interesting then, how watches have grown, but is this a trend or is it a natural evolutionary process that is here to stay? Your guess is as good as mine.
For 2015, Graham watches releases a new “Geo.Graham” watch which is part of their higher-end collection of classic timepieces. We first saw Geo.Graham watches back in 2012 with the release of Geo.Graham The Moon watch. These watches are more directly inspired by the classic work of watchmaker George Graham, whom the company is based on – even though he was British and Graham today is Swiss. The simply named Geo.Graham Tourbillon is a refined dress watch with a clear luxury position, but not at all pretentious. Of course, that should be tempered with the fact that tourbillons are like the chrome-plating of the luxury watch world – they add visual excitement and technical enhancements, but don’t really add to a timepiece’s ability to accurately tell the time. Nevertheless, in a dress watch like this, it is hard to say no to a tourbillon when it looks this cool.
Time-only tourbillon watches with the hours and minutes and a 60-second tourbillon as the seconds indicator are a sort of guilty pleasure for me. When I find one that is visually attractive, I try to think of reasons to wear it, even though I don’t normally do dress watches. At 40mm wide, the Geo.Graham Tourbillon wears modestly in its 18k pink gold case. It also happens to be quite thin at 9.85mm thick. Watch graham norton online Replica has provided some images of historical George Graham pocket watches that are meant to help you understand the visual inspiration Graham used when designing the Geo.Graham Tourbillon.
Bold and brash are just two adjectives often utilised to explain Graham’s Chronofighter watches and these four new versions are not any different. Many vintage-inspired watches stop short at having classic dial elements like beige Super-LumiNova or designs based on watches in the archives, but these are refreshing in the sense that their instances do look remarkably worn out in and used. Along with the riveted dials, this provides the Graham watch dealers in singapore Replica Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Ltd. watches a very solid antique and used look that I believe is quite distinctive from other vintage-inspired watches from other brands and they deserve a closer look. Priced at over $300,000, this planetarium-style watch (which they referred to as a “planetarian” at the time) had an extremely complicated movement made for Graham by Christophe Claret and was regarded as a limited edition of only 20 pieces. {
I quite like the dial which is classic but just a little bit different, as it hearkens back to very old timepieces. Like one of George Graham’s original pocket watches, the dial of the Geo.Graham Tourbillon has an inner scale of Roman numeral hour markers and an hour scale of Arabic numeral minute markers. The traditional looking tourbillon has a flat bridge and offers a view straight through the back of the watch.
The movement in the Geo.Graham Tourbillon isn’t produced by Graham, but is produced exclusively for them. They call it the caliber G1796 and in addition to the time and tourbillon it has an automatic micro-rotor. The movement operates at 3Hz (21,600 bph) and has a power reserve of 72 hours (three days). While we don’t yet have images of the rear of the Geo.Graham Tourbillon case, Graham watch for sale malaysia Replica tells us that there is a special “slot for the oscillating weight” on the rear of the watch where micro-rotor is located. The micro-rotor is produced from gold, and is said to be engraved with arabesque decoration (inspired by the decor on original George Graham watches).
Water resistant to 50 meters and matched to a hand-sewn brown alligator strap, the Geo.Graham Tourbillon feels lovely and simple in a nice high-end package that anyone with conservative taste can stand behind. I won’t lie that the market for dressy tourbillon watches isn’t competitive – because it certainly is. Customers thinking about the Geo.Graham Tourbillon will have a lot of options, but it is nice to see Graham watches sale Replica extend itself into this territory more, as the brand is mostly known for their sport watches such as the Chronofighter (review here).
Graham will produce 100 pieces of this limited edition ref. 2GGCP.W01A Geo.Graham Tourbillon. Price is $80,420. graham1695.com
Lately, Loth also believes, unlike numerous now chasing the technology watch inventions, that it’s once more the individual element – humanity’s metaphysical appreciation of artwork – that will make the watch industry endure the test of time. While Jason graham watches Replica might appear to be the perfect fit for the next high-tech “smart watch” with military purposes, Loth instead thinks that the significance in cellular technology and watches aren’t always connected and that the true significance of “wrist technology” has not yet been discovered. In an interesting sci-fi turn, he reveals to us that he considers chip-implant cellular technology will probably be discovered and publicly available over the next 10 years. Anyone know any great chip development stocks?Eric Loth informs me that the Graham watch client is one who has grown out of the first consumer stage of “wanting to have a watch to help them fit in with everyone else.” The Graham clients are in a stage of success in their private and professional lives where they find the liberty to think for themselves and do not necessarily wish to blend in with their peers. He tells me that the Graham customer is a customer who now enjoys being distinct and expressing themselves personally as such by using their watches.
Interestingly, Loth also believes, unlike so many now chasing the tech watch inventions, that it is once more the individual element – humanity’s metaphysical appreciation of art – which will make the watch industry survive the test of time. While Graham might seem to be the ideal fit for the upcoming high-tech “smart watch” with military purposes, Loth rather believes that the significance in mobile technology and watches are not always linked and that the real value of “wrist technologies” hasn’t yet been uncovered. In an intriguing sci-fi turn, he reveals to us that he believes chip-implant mobile technology will be discovered and publicly available within the next 10 years. Anyone know any good chip development stocks?Eric Loth tells me that the Graham watch client is somebody who has grown from the initial consumer point of “needing to have a watch to help them fit in with everyone else.” The Graham customers are at a point of succeeding in their private and professional lives in which they find the freedom to think for themselves and don’t necessarily want to blend in with their peers. He informs me that the Graham client is a customer who now appreciates being distinct and expressing themselves personally as such by using their watches.
Welcome back to an original aBlogtoWatch feature, “My First Grail Watch.” In this series, we ask prominent people in the watch industry about the first timepiece that they lusted after. Today, we’re speaking with Eric Loth, the founder of Graham watch 906 Replica SA, about the grails that elude him to this day.
aBlogtoWatch (ABTW): Who are you, and what is your relationship to the watch industry?
Eric Loth (EL): I’m the founder of Graham watches any good Replica SA. I grew up in le Locle and did my engineering studies in the region. La Chaux-de-Fonds, next to Le Locle, is now the home of Graham. The Watch valley is an area I know pretty well. And this is in this region that my passion for mechanics and precision also was born.
Bold and brash are two adjectives often utilised to describe Graham’s Chronofighter watches and these four new models are not any different. Most vintage-inspired watches stop short at getting classic dial elements like beige Super-LumiNova or designs based on watches from the archives, but those are refreshing in the sense that their instances do seem remarkably worn out in and utilized. Along with the riveted dials, this provides the Graham Chronofighter Vintage Aircraft Ltd. watches a very solid antique and used look that I think is quite distinctive from other vintage-inspired watches from other brands and they deserve a closer look. Priced at more than300,000, this planetarium-style watch (which they called a “planetarian” at the time) had a very complicated movement made for Graham from Christophe Claret and was said to be a limited edition of only 20 pieces. {
ABTW: When did your fascination with watches start?
EL: I started my working life at Rado. At that time, the brand was widely recognized for its creativity and avant-garde. Advanced and different materials were used such as sapphire and cemented carbide. It made me curious and fuelled my passion and fascination for new technology and complex material combinations. This first impetus led me to continue in that direction.
ABTW: What was your first grail watch?
EL: Trilogy [of Time] Ulysse Nardin by Ludwig Oechslin for my friend Rolf Schnyder.
Lately, Loth also considers, unlike numerous now chasing the technology watch inventions, that it’s once again the individual element – mankind’s metaphysical appreciation of artwork – that will make the watch business endure the test of time. While Graham might appear to be the ideal fit for the next high tech “smart watch” with military functions, Loth instead believes that the significance in mobile watches and technology aren’t always linked and that the real significance of “wrist technology” has not yet been uncovered. In an interesting sci-fi twist, he reveals to us that he believes chip-implant cellular technology will probably be discovered and publicly accessible within the next 10 years. Anyone know any great chip improvement stocks?Eric Loth tells me that the Graham watch customer is somebody who has grown out of the first consumer point of “wanting to own a watch to help them fit in with everyone else.” The Graham customers are in a stage of success in their private and professional lives where they find the liberty to think for themselves and also do not necessarily want to mix with their peers. He informs me that the Graham customer is a consumer who now appreciates being distinct and expressing themselves personally as such by using their watches.
When the third yearly WatchTime New York series wrapped up on Saturday, lots of attendees walked away with either a new watch on their wrist, or an idea for their next purchase–or simply tuned into the horological high that so many fans thirst for. For a lot of people, in addition, it provided a chance to observe timepieces that had been announced but had not yet been displayed to the public. 1 such exle is that the eight-piece, limited-edition Geo. Graham watches chrono24 Replica Orrery Tourbillon, an unexpected high complication from a brand most noteworthy because of its devotion to high-octane sports watches. Geo-Graham Orrery Tourbillon – frontThe Graham booth was packed through the two-day honest as people crowded around to see the timepiece inspired by brand eponym George Graham’s creation of the contemporary orrery at 1713. An orrery is traditionally a mechanical model that exemplifies the heliocentric position of the solar system. In the 2017 Geo-Graham Orrery Tourbillon, a tourbillon made by Christophe Claret forms the beating heart of this galaxy while Moon and Mars characters–crafted with actual fragments of the celestial bodies obtained from meteorites that fell to Earth, along with also a Kingman-turquoise Earth–circle the tourbillon enclosed within an 18K pink gold bridge. In the center of the engraved superstar instance, a cabochon diamond marks the dead center for its solar rotations.
ABTW: What drew you to this particular collection?
EL: This grail is for me the perfect representation of the connection between astronomy and watch making. This is the material match between space and watch making savoir-faire.
ABTW: Have you been able to locate and acquire the watches?
EL: Unfortunately, I have not found the 3 watches together in any market. I have also spent a lot of effort into Graham’s development, and consequently less time spent in my quest of the grail, but I know I will get them one day.
ABTW: Given those constraints, has anything else become your Grail?
EL: No. This is still my grail. I know I will have the opportunity to get them all – it is clear in my mind!
The initiation of the Indian Scout Bobber brings a fresh and stylish look challenging the brands standard conservative style, similar to what the Clifton Club has done for Baume et Mercier. The sleek, understated utilitarian appearance of the bike makes you believe that could ride this anywhere, at any time, wearing anything, maybe even a slim-fitted suit. The fit and finish of the Bobber may be best described as bang for your dollar with a huge emphasis on bang and less on the buck; yet another similarity with the Clifton Club’s tight and satisfying build quality not commonly found on competitors’ watches in precisely the same price range.Baume et Mercier had made a limited version for the Shelby Cobra, so it was natural that they’d be releasing a bit to kick-off their venture with Indian Motorcycles, the Burt Munro Limited Edition. Meaning, I really want the newest to embody whatever they’re attempting to accomplish with this “particular” piece. Some brands will just combine a logo, maybe change the color of the dial, or even just place the watch on another strap and then call it a day. Luckily, Baume et Mercier put some actual thought into the Burt Munro Tribute timepiece.Much such as the Clifton Club Shelby Cobra 1964, the new piece is styled in an 44mm polished stainless steel case with dual pushers and beveled lugs. The motor powering the watch is exactly the same automatic Valjoux 7750 running smoothly on 25 jewels at 4Hz, capable of storing up to 48 hours in its book tank. Thus far, so familiar, but in which the watch really stands apart from the Shelby Cobra sibling is at the details of the tachymeter and dial.
Are we pumped for SIHH 2018 yet? Just like the “holiday shopping season” and beginning around the same time, it seems like the new-product announcements get earlier every year. With still more than a month to go, the 2018 models that we will get to see in Geneva in January have already started coming in. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch industry trade show, just like its organizing body the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), has continued to grow and evolve each year, adding more brands as well as a day where the show is open to the public for the first time in 2017 – this time around, it will be Friday, January 19th, 2018. Now with a total of 35 brands, SIHH 2018 promises even more variety than in previous years.
You already know that SIHH is one of the two most important events for the watch industry, as its exhibitors – while much fewer than at the biggest industry trade show, Baselworld – represent many major and influential brands, and this is the time of year when they introduce their most important new products. Vis-à-vis Baselworld – where around 300 brands represent the breadth of the watch industry from high-end and mainstream to obscure startups – SIHH has always carefully maintained an image of exclusivity and “prestige.”
So, while a few brands do introduce models in the “mid-level luxury” range that the average person might be able to consider saving up for and possibly actually wearing… you can expect a lot of skeletonization, avant-garde designs, artisanal techniques and haute horology finishing, “high complications,” precious materials, and stratospheric prices. Haute horlogerie is in the name, after all. It has largely been a spectator’s show for fans of high-end watchmaking, but with recent industry trends emphasizing more “down-to-earth” (it’s all relative) models, some balance and variety can at least be hoped for.
SIHH 2018’s 35 Exhibiting Brands
The Richemont Group along with some independent brands long represented the handful of SIHH exhibitors. However, the show’s 2016 edition added a “Carré des Horlogers” section with nine “artisan-creators and independent workshops” and expanded that number in 2017. This year, the Carré des Horlogers brands are up to no fewer than 17, with the primary exhibitors (referred to as “Historic Maisons”) at 18 for a total, again, of 35. The primary exhibitors are joined by Hermes, and the Carré des Horlogers adds five brands with Armin Strom, DeWitt, Ferdinand Berthoud, Élégante by F.P.Journe, and Romain Gauthier. See the full list of exhibitors in the image above.
From a media perspective, Baselworld has tended to spread our resources very thinly in past years with simply too much to cover at once, so with some prominent brands having moved from Baselworld to SIHH, we can hope for some balance between the shows. Around 20,000 visitors are expected this year, and the FHH promises improved facilities and connectivity in order to make our job of bringing you high quality content more efficient – so we’ll see what that’s like in January. That’s just a glimpse into our point of view in preparing for the show.
We’ll continue providing news of new products ahead of the show – if mostly only renders and official product images from the brands with basic information before being able to see the watches in person to photograph and evaluate them in their glorious and gritty reality. SIHH 2018 runs from January 15th to the 19th, and again, the last day is open to the public with tickets on sale at the SIHH website. sihh.org
The texture of the pre-production bit was solid, from its own buckle, straps, case, and finish. I really liked the subject of this watch and the best part about it was that it looked classic. The subtle “Phi” stamping of the base strap, near the lugs, is really a wonderful touch without yelling “It’s a Baume et Mercier watch.” Another nice touch is the chronograph hand counterweight, that is the Indian Motorcycle’s “I.” Finally, the caseback, while nonetheless not an exhibition caseback, is engraved with the Indian Motorcycle’s headdress logo with the limited edition number engraving, one from 1967.
Baume & Mercier make a range of classically styled watches, usually priced in the $2,000 to $5,000 price range. Occasionally, they offer something a bit special, something that is “an emblem of flawless watchmaking,” as they describe the Clifton collection, and that is what’s on offer today. The Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar is a high-complication jewel of a watch showcasing the brand’s upper level of products and price.
This isn’t the first time Baume & Mercier has offered high complications. In the past, they’ve released tourbillons, eight-day power reserve watches, and pocket repeaters, forming a tradition of making high-end watches that offer something unique in each one.
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar is the newest timepiece in this pantheon. We do see high complications in stainless steel cases, but Baume & Mercier here employ a polished and satin-finished case in beautiful 18K red gold.
The movement is visible through the sapphire display back, and it’s a joy to look at, with its micro-rotor, circular graining, Geneva stripes, and blued screws. The Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar begins with the extra-flat Vaucher caliber 5401, an automatic, micro-rotor movement just 2.6mm thin and 30mm in diameter from Manufacture Vaucher. They then make it a mite thicker by applying a perpetual calendar plate provided by the Dubois-Depraz 5100 Module. The combination of the caliber 5401 with the Dubois-Depraz module creates a movement that’s very svelte, at only 4.2mm thin.
In contrast to watchmakers that buy movements from third parties and relabel them with their own nomenclature, the Baume & Mercier press release lists the two parts as simply, “Manufacture Automatic (Dubois Depraz 5100, base Vaucher 5401).” We appreciate their clearness in a space that is frequently clouded. Make no mistake, using these parts isn’t a some form of cost reduction. Vaucher is owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation, and have manufactured movements for clients including Richard Mille and Hermes.
The really lovely thing about the Baume & Mercier Perpetual Calendar is how well the sub-dials are spaced. They appear well-proportioned to the face, placing the month at the top, the date to the right, day of week to the left, and moonphase with seconds at the bottom of the dial. The dial at the 12 position also keeps track of leap years. Theoretically, the watch will keep track of time without needing to be adjusted until March of the year 2100, provided you wind it regularly and service it periodically.
The Baume & Mercier Clifton Perpetual Calendar is an excellent addition to the Clifton Collection. For US$22,900, you get a perpetual calendar watch in a gold case and attractive movement – it is delightfully thin, reliable, and well worth the consideration of those in the market for a classical perpetual calendar watch fore everyday wear. baume-et-mercier.ch
